Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. (NYSE:ZGN) (the “Company” and, together with its consolidated subsidiaries, the “Ermenegildo Zegna Group” or “the Group”) today announced profit of €31.3 million in H1 2024 compared to €52.1 million in H1 2023. In H1 2024, Adjusted EBIT was equal to €80.9 million compared to €119.9 million in H1 2023.

Ermenegildo “Gildo” Zegna, Group Chairman and CEO, said: “The first half of 2024 was marked by important investments in all three of our brands to further strengthen and foster ongoing value creation for each of them. We continued to double down on the successful ZEGNA One Brand Strategy, recently exemplified by the VILLA ZEGNA event in New York. We have taken decisive actions to reinforce the Thom Browne organization both at HQ and in key regions. And, at TOM FORD FASHION, we recently announced Haider Ackermann as the new TOM FORD Creative Director – a pairing that we are confident will take the brand to new heights.

I believe these steps are what is needed for our Group as the luxury industry goes through an important normalization phase and continues to face macroeconomic and geopolitical uncertainties around the world. Our first half operating results – with Adjusted EBIT Margin at 8.4% vs. 13.3% in H1 2023 – were also affected by our decision to continue investing in key projects, some of which were concentrated in the first six months of the year. Along with these investments, we have also implemented cost controls while continuing to operate with appropriate caution. Even though the overall environment is expected to remain even more challenging, I am confident that our projects and actions are the right ones to unleash the untapped long-term potential of all three of our brands.”

Half Year 2024 Key Financial Highlights

Revenues

In H1 2024 the Group recorded revenues of €960.1 million, +6.3% YoY and -2.7% organic. The ZEGNA brand recorded €566.1 million, +4.6% YoY and +5.9% organic growth. Thom Browne revenues were €166.7 million, -19.4% YoY and -26.7% organic. TOM FORD FASHION recorded €148.5 million of revenues, +132.0% YoY and +4.7% organic growth while Textile revenues were €71.8 million (-1.7% YoY and -0.6% organic).

Gross Profit, Operating Profit and Profit

Gross profit in H1 2024 reached €637.4 million compared to €579.8 million in H1 2023 with a gross profit margin of 66.4% compared to 64.2% in H1 2023. This improvement was driven by two main factors: first, channel mix, given the increasing proportion of direct-to-consumer (“DTC”) revenues which rose from 72% in H1 2023 to 76% in H1 2024 of branded group revenues (excluding Textile and Other businesses), and second, better inventory management.

Selling, general, and administrative (SG&A) expenses were €497.6 million (51.8% of revenues) in H1 2024, compared to €415.8 million (46.0% of revenues) in H1 2023. The SG&A higher incidence on revenues largely reflects investments made in talents to support the future growth of all the Group’s brands, as well as to develop the store network, and the consolidation of Tom Ford Fashion segment results for the entire six months (compared to approximately two months in H1 2023).

Marketing expenses in H1 2024 were €66.8 million (7.0% of revenues) compared to €47.5 million (5.3% of revenues) in H1 2023. The increase in incidence of the marketing expenses is largely due to a higher number of events concentrated in the first part of the year compared to H1 2023.

As a result of the above, the Group reported an operating profit of €73.1 million compared to €116.5 million in H1 2023 and a profit of €31.3 million, with a 3.3% profit margin, compared to €52.1 million in H1 2023 (5.8% profit margin).

Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted EBIT Margin

The table below shows the reconciliation of Profit to Adjusted EBIT and the calculation of the profit margin and the Adjusted EBIT Margin in H1 2024 and 2023. Adjusted EBIT is the main performance metric used by the Group’s management at the consolidated and reporting segment level.

Analysis by Segment

In H1 2024, Adjusted EBIT for the Zegna segment was €84.7 million from €99.7 million in H1 2023. Adjusted EBIT for the Thom Browne segment was €20.2 million, from €31.5 million in H1 2023. The Tom Ford Fashion segment reported an Adjusted EBIT of negative €11.9 million, versus positive €4.3 million in H1 2023. The latter comparison, however, is not meaningful since H1 2023 consists of approximately just two months of TOM FORD FASHION results (consolidated since April 29, 2023).

Zegna segment

In H1 2023, the Zegna segment (which includes ZEGNA brand, Textile and Third Party Brands) generated revenues of €660.5 million², +2.5% YoY (+3.5% organic growth).

Adjusted EBIT for the Zegna segment was €84.7 million in H1 2024 with an Adjusted EBIT Margin of 12.8% compared to 15.5% in H1 2023. This performance was primarily driven by the increase in marketing expenses, due to a higher concentration of events and projects in the first half of 2024 compared to the first six months of the prior year, investments in talents and on the stores network expansions.

Thom Browne segment

In H1 2024, the Thom Browne segment generated revenues of €166.9 million, -19.7% YoY (-27.0% organic).

Adjusted EBIT for the Thom Browne segment was €20.2 million in H1 2024, with an Adjusted EBIT Margin of 12.1% compared to 15.2% in H1 2023. The decrease was led by a lower operating leverage due to the decline in revenues.

Tom Ford Fashion segment

In H1 2024, the Tom Ford Fashion (“TFF”) segment generated revenues of €148.5 million, +131.9% YoY and +4.7% organic growth. Adjusted EBIT for this segment in H1 2024 was negative €11.9 million, compared to positive €4.3 million in H1 2023. Given that the Tom Ford Fashion segment was consolidated for only approximately two months in H1 2023, the comparison between H1 2024 and H1 2023 results is not meaningful.

Additionally, since the acquisition, the Group has started to strengthen the TFF organization – investing in talent, store networks, marketing and in IT systems – to support its future growth, which also explain the increase in costs in H1 2024.

Corporate costs

Corporate costs amounted to €12.0 million in H1 2024 compared to €15.6 million in H1 2023. The decrease is largely due to a lower impact of incentive plans.

Capital Expenditure, Trade Working Capital, Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) and Free Cash Flow

Capital expenditure

Capital expenditure (capex) in H1 2024 achieved €60.1 million compared to €34.5 million in H1 2023. This increase is mainly attributable to the first part of investments for the new footwear production plant in Parma (Italy) and the expansion in the DTC channel mainly for ZEGNA and Tom Ford Fashion.

Trade Working Capital

Trade Working Capital was €475.6 million at June 30, 2024, 2.2% higher compared to €465.4 million at June 30, 2023. The increase is mainly attributable to a lower level of trade payable (-5.1% vs. June 30, 2023) partially counterbalanced by a better management of inventories and stable receivables.

Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus)

Net Financial Indebtedness was €65.5 million at June 30, 2024, compared to €17.0 million at June 30, 2023, reflecting the net cash outflows mainly related to capex and investments in controlled entities.

Free Cash Flow

In H1 2024 the Group generated negative Free Cash Flow of €6.6 million compared to positive €14.0 million in H1 2023, primarily driven by the increase in capex.

Conference Call

As previously announced, today, at 8a.m. ET (2p.m. CET), the Group will host a live webcast and conference call.
To access the webcast please visit our website (https://ir.zegnagroup.com/financial-calendar/events/).
To participate in the call, please dial:

Italy: +39 06 9450 1060
United States: +1 646 787 9445
United Kingdom: +44 20 3936 2999

Access Code: 594212

Webcast link: https://events.q4inc.com/attendee/321182422

An online archive of the broadcast will be available on the website shortly after the live call and will be available for twelve months.

Upcoming Announcements

The Ermenegildo Zegna Group’s next scheduled announcement is October 22, 2024 Q3 2024 Revenues (*)

To receive email alerts of the timing of future financial news releases, as well as future announcements, please register at https://ir.zegnagroup.com.

About Ermenegildo Zegna Group

Founded in 1910 in Trivero, Italy, the Ermenegildo Zegna Group (NYSE:ZGN) is a global luxury company with a leading position in the high-end menswear business. Through its three complementary brands, the Group reaches a wide range of communities and market segments across the high-end fashion industry, from ZEGNA’s timeless luxury to the modern tailoring of Thom Browne, to luxury glamour with TOM FORD FASHION. The Ermenegildo Zegna Group is internationally recognized for its unique Filiera, owned and controlled by the Group, which is made up of the finest Italian textile producers fully integrated with unique luxury manufacturing capabilities, to ensure superior excellence, quality and innovation capacity. The Ermenegildo Zegna Group has more than 7,000 employees and recorded revenues of €1.9 billion in 2023.

Forward Looking Statements

This communication contains forward-looking statements that are based on beliefs and assumptions and on information currently available to the Company. In particular, statements regarding future financial performance and the Group’s expectations as to the achievement of certain targeted metrics at any future date or for any future period are forward-looking statements. In some cases, you can identify forward-looking statements by the following words: “may,” “will,” “could,” “would,” “should,” “expect,” “intend,” “plan,” “anticipate,” “believe,” “estimate,” “predict,” “project,” “potential,” “continue,” “ongoing,” “target,” “seek”, “aspire,” “goal,” “outlook,” “guidance,” “forecast,” “prospect” or the negative or plural of these words, or other similar expressions that are predictions or indicate future events or prospects, although not all forward-looking statements contain these words. Any statements that refer to expectations, projections or other characterizations of future events or circumstances, including strategies or plans, are also forward-looking statements. These statements involve risks, uncertainties and other factors that may cause actual results, levels of activity, performance or achievements to be materially different from the information expressed or implied by these forward-looking statements, and, as such, undue reliance should not be placed on them. Actual results may differ materially from those expressed in forward-looking statements as a result of a variety of factors, including: the recognition, integrity and reputation of our brands; our ability to anticipate trends and to identify and respond to new and changing consumer preference; the COVID-19 pandemic or similar public health crises; international business, regulatory, social and political risks; the conflict in Ukraine and sanctions imposed onto Russia; the occurrence of acts of terrorism or similar events, conflicts, civil unrest or situations of political instability; developments in Greater China and other growth and emerging markets; our ability to implement our strategy; recent and potential future acquisitions; disruption to our manufacturing and logistics facilities; risks related to the sale of our products through our direct-to-consumer channel, as well as through points of sale operated by third parties; our dependence on our local partners to sell our products in certain markets; fluctuations in the price or quality of, or disruptions in the availability of, raw materials; our ability to negotiate, maintain or renew our license or co-branding agreements with high end third party brands; tourist traffic and demand; our dependence on certain key senior personnel as well as skilled personnel; our ability to protect our intellectual property rights; disruption in our information technology, including as a result of cybercrime; the theft or unauthorized use of personal information of our customers, employees or other parties; fluctuations in currency exchange rates or interest rates; the level of competition in the industry in which we operate; global economic conditions and macro events, including inflation; failures to comply with applicable laws and regulations; climate change and other environmental impacts and our ability to meet our customers’ and other stakeholders’ expectations on environment, social and governance matters; the enactment of tax reforms or other changes in tax laws and regulations; and other risks and uncertainties, including those described in our filings with the SEC.

Most of these factors are outside the Company’s control and are difficult to predict. In light of the significant uncertainties in these forward-looking statements, you should not regard these statements as a representation or warranty by the Company and its directors, officers or employees or any other person that the Company will achieve its objectives and plans in any specified time frame, or at all. The forward-looking statements in this communication represent the views of the Company as of the date of this communication. Subsequent events and developments may cause that view to change. However, while the Company may elect to update these forward-looking statements at some point in the future, the Company disclaims any obligation to update or revise publicly forward-looking statements. You should, therefore, not rely on these forward-looking statements as representing the views of the Company as of any date subsequent to the date of this communication.

First Half 2024 - Group Revenues Tables

Revenues by Segment (Unaudited)

Revenues by Brand and Product Line (Unaudited)

Revenues by Distribution Channel (Unaudited)

Revenues by Geographical Area (Unaudited)

Group Monobrand ⁽¹⁾ Store Network at June 30, 2024

Non-IFRS Financial Measures

The Group’s management monitors and evaluates operating and financial performance using several non-IFRS financial measures including: adjusted earnings before interest and taxes (“Adjusted EBIT”), Adjusted EBIT Margin, Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus), Trade Working Capital, Free Cash Flow, revenues on a constant currency basis (constant currency) and revenues on an organic growth basis (organic or organic growth). The Group’s management believes that these non-IFRS financial measures provide useful and relevant information regarding the Group’s financial performance and financial condition, and improve the ability of management and investors to assess and compare the financial performance and financial position of the Group with those of other companies. They also provide comparable measures that facilitate management’s ability to identify operational trends, as well as make decisions regarding future spending, resource allocations and other strategic and operational decisions. While similar measures are widely used in the industry in which the Group operates, the financial measures that the Group uses may not be comparable to other similarly named measures used by other companies nor are they intended to be substitutes for measures of financial performance or financial position as prepared in accordance with IFRS. A definition, explanation of relevance and a reconciliation of each non-IFRS financial measure to the most directly comparable measure calculated and presented in accordance with IFRS are set out below.

Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted EBIT Margin

Adjusted EBIT is defined as profit or loss before income taxes plus financial income, financial expenses, foreign exchange losses and the result from investments accounted for using the equity method, adjusted for income and costs which are significant in nature and that management considers not reflective of underlying operating activities, including, for one or all of the periods presented and as further described below, net impairment of leased and owned stores, severance indemnities and provisions for severance expenses, legal costs for trademark dispute, transaction costs related to acquisitions, costs related to the Business Combination, special donations for social responsibility and net income related to lease agreements.

Adjusted EBIT Margin is defined as Adjusted EBIT divided by revenues of the applicable period.

The Group’s management uses Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted EBIT Margin for internal reporting to assess performance and as part of the forecasting, budgeting and decision-making processes as they provide additional transparency regarding the Group’s underlying operating performance. The Group’s management believes these non-IFRS financial measures are useful because they exclude items that management believes are not indicative of the Group’s underlying operating performance and allow management to view operating trends, perform analytical comparisons and benchmark performance between periods and among segments. The Group’s management also believes that Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted EBIT Margin are useful for investors and analysts to better understand how management assesses the Group’s underlying operating performance on a consistent basis and to compare the Group’s performance with that of other companies. Accordingly, management believes that Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted EBIT Margin provide useful information to third party stakeholders in understanding and evaluating the Group’s operating results.

The following table presents a reconciliation of Profit to Adjusted EBIT and the calculation of the profit margin and the Adjusted EBIT Margin for the six months ended June 30, 2024 and 2023:

Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus)

Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) is defined as the sum of financial borrowings (current and non-current) and derivative financial instrument liabilities, net of cash and cash equivalents, derivative financial instrument assets, securities (recorded within other current financial assets in the semi-annual condensed consolidated statement of financial position).

The Group’s management believes that Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) is useful to monitor the level of net liquidity and financial resources available to the Group. The Group’s management believes this non-IFRS financial measure aids management, investors and analysts to analyze the Group’s financial position and financial resources available, and to compare the Group’s financial position and financial resources available with that of other companies.

The following table sets forth the calculation of Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) at June 30, 2024, at December 31, 2023 and June 30, 2023:

Trade Working Capital

Trade Working Capital is defined as current assets less current liabilities adjusted for derivative assets and liabilities, tax receivables and liabilities, cash and cash equivalents, borrowings, lease liabilities, and certain other current assets and liabilities.

The Group’s management uses Trade Working Capital to understand and evaluate the Group’s liquidity generation/absorption. The Group’s management believes this non-IFRS financial measure is important supplemental information for investors in evaluating liquidity in that it provides insight into the availability of net current resources to fund our ongoing operations. Trade Working Capital is a measure used by management in internal evaluations of cash availability and operational performance.

The following table sets forth the calculation of Trade Working Capital at June 30, 2024, at December 31, 2023 and June 30, 2023:

Trade Working Capital increased by €26,733 thousand from €448,909 thousand at December 31, 2023 to €475,642 thousand at June 30, 2024, primarily related to (i) lower trade payables and customer advances of €32,318 thousand, and (ii) higher inventories of €18,202 thousand, partially offset by (iii) lower trade receivables of €23,787 thousand. The increase in inventories was driven by ZEGNA and TOM FORD FASHION to support growth of the business, including the effects of new store openings and the conversion of ZEGNA stores in South Korea from wholesale to DTC, as well as foreign exchange impact (mainly the United States Dollar and the Chinese Renminbi) and a build up of Textile inventories for the upcoming season, partially offset by a reduction in Thom Browne driven by improved inventory management. The changes in trade receivables and in trade payables and customer advances were primarily driven by seasonality, and the change in trade receivables also reflects the impact of the conversion of several stores from wholesale to DTC.

Free Cash Flow

Free Cash Flow is defined as net cash flows from operating activities less payments for property, plant and equipment (net of proceeds from disposals), intangible assets and lease liabilities.

The Group’s management believes that Free Cash Flow is a useful metric for management, investors and analysts to evaluate and monitor the Group’s ability to generate cash, including in comparison to other companies. Free Cash Flow is not representative of residual cash flows available for discretionary purposes.

The following table sets forth the Free Cash Flow for the six months ended June 30, 2024, and 2023:

Revenues on a constant currency basis (constant currency)

In addition to presenting our revenues on a current currency basis, we also present certain revenue information on a constant currency basis (constant currency), which excludes the effects of foreign currency translation from our subsidiaries with functional currencies different from the Euro.

We calculate constant currency revenues by applying the current period average foreign currency exchange rates to translate prior period revenues of foreign subsidiaries expressed in local functional currencies different than the Euro.

We use revenues on a constant currency basis to analyze how our underlying revenues have changed between periods independent of the effects of foreign currency translation.

Revenues on a constant currency basis are not a substitute for revenues on a current currency basis or any IFRS-related measures, however we believe that revenues excluding the impact of foreign currency translation provide additional useful information to management and to investors in analyzing and evaluating our revenues and operating performance.

Revenues on an organic growth basis (organic growth or organic)

In addition to presenting our revenues on a current currency basis, we also present certain revenue information on an organic growth basis (organic growth or organic). Organic growth is calculated as the change in revenues from period to period, excluding the effects of (a) foreign exchange, (b) acquisitions and disposals and (c) changes in license agreements where the Group operates as a licensee.

In calculating organic growth, the following adjustments are made to revenues:

We believe the presentation of organic growth is useful to better understand and analyze the underlying change in the Group’s revenues from period to period on a consistent perimeter and constant currency basis.

Revenues on an organic growth basis are not a substitute for revenues on a current currency basis or any IFRS-related measures, however we believe that revenues excluding the effects of (a) foreign exchange, (b) acquisitions and disposals and (c) changes in license agreements where the Group operates as a licensee provide additional useful information to management and to investors in analyzing and evaluating our revenues and operating performance.

The tables below show a reconciliation of reported revenue growth to constant currency, excluding the effects of foreign exchange, and to organic, which excludes also acquisitions and disposals and changes in license agreements where the Group operates as a licensee, by segment, by product line, by distribution channel and by geographic area for the six months ended June 30, 2024 compared to the six months ended June 30, 2023 (H1 2024 vs H1 2023) and for the three months ended June 30, 2024 compared to the three months ended June 30, 2023 (Q2 2024 vs Q2 2023).

Segment

Product line

Distribution channel

Geographic area

Capital expenditure

Capital expenditure is defined as the sum of cash outflows that result in additions to property, plant and equipment and intangible assets.

The following table shows a breakdown of capital expenditure by category for the six months ended June 30, 2024 and 2023.

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